The JS-28 that can be also found from these pages needed some adjustments, so I created the JS-28+, based on a stereojack added to the MB-10 vertical grip (the s in the end comes from "stereoplug"...). The remote itself is identical with the JS-28, just the plug in the end is now a male 3mm stereoplug. So, you need a female version of the plug on the camera, and I decided to add it to the MB-10. I guess you could add it to the 90x-body also, but I wouldn't try that...:0)>

The idea came from Ilkka Haapavirta who had done it earlier, but I waited a whole year before I had the guts to make this. It was actually more simple than it sounds!

The MB-10s

You open the MB-10 with about 10 small screws on the top and on the top end. When you open it, you can see five wires coming up to the "tower" - two thicker ones and three narrow ones. We need two of the narrow ones, the red and the green and a ground wire. I decided that the easiest way to solder new wires was to remove the three pins from the top of the "tower" (opens with two screws) and replace all the orginal ones with longer wires (remember to put down the original pins of every color on a piece of paper!). So I did it, passed the new wires down the whole and replaced the three pins on the original place - easy.

Now, you don't actually need the gray wire at all, it was just easier to solder the new wires on the pins when it was also removed - so now it's time to join the gray wire and to its original pin. That leaves us four wires, red and green and the new wires coming from their pins.These control the firing and the focusing.

NOTE: You should actually use the pink and blue wires that are located after the diodes in the MB-10, but since I found it easier to reach the red and green wires I did the connections to those. So now I don't use the diodes in the connections, but I haven't have any troubles - but now you can't say I didn't warn you...

Now all you need is a ground wire. You can use the one going up to the battery chamber, or do like I did: use the yellow wire in the lower right corner of the MB-10 (looking from the back). That's the ground wire of the vertical firing button. I soldered a new wire to the same spot with the old yellow one.

Now we have three wires - all that is left is to solder these to the sterojack and attach the jack to the MB-10. Before you do this, test the connections by attaching the camera to the MB-10.

So, take the green wire AND the new wire coming from its original pin and solder them to one of the contacts on the jack. Then take the red wire AND the new wire coming from its pin and solder them to the second contact. Then add the ground wire to the third contact and it's done. Don't worry about which contacts to use for which wire - you can make the remote control so that all the right wire are on the right places.

At this point it's wise to test the connection - if it's working ok, just drill a hole to the side of the MB-10, add the jack and reassemble the whole thing. You can seal the hole with silicone or something similiar if you feel the need, but be carefull with the original parts inside the MB-10! Below are two photos of the one I made for my MB-10.

The remote
The remote itself is even more simple than the one for the 801 as you can see from the picture. I used three switches, one for the focusing(a), one for shutter release(b), and one lockable one(c) for the shutter release in bulb-mode. One end of all the switches have been connected to each other and then to the ground wire 3, and the other end of the lockable switch was connected to the switch b. The remaining wire on the switch a was connected with the wire from the pin 2 and the last wire from the switch b and c was connected with the pin 1.
I built the whole thing in a plastic film container and attached the switches on the cover, just like I did with the remote release for the 801. I added a female stereo-plug on the bottom of the container, so now i can either use it just with the short wire coming from the connector, or add a longer wire in between.

First version was built in a film canister. A really compact and easy solution!

My "DeLux"-version of the remote was built in a plastic housing I bought from an electronics shop. It was ment for remote controls or something. Fits nicely in my hand. I also added an on/off-switch to prevent accidentally firing the camera (if the lockable "bulb"-switch in in the wrong position when you plug the remote in, the camera of course starts to fire.). I think it turned out to be a pretty nice looking remote? I think I'll call this one JS-28s.

Components:

• 3mm stereojack, female and male (the female being as small as possible!)
  
• wire
• three switches, for example a red one and two black ones for clarity. One of these should be lockable.
  
• cord with three wires
  
• film container or something similiar for the housing
  

J.Suokas
En ota minkäänlaista vastuuta näillä sivuilla esitetyistä rakennelmista tai
niiden mahdollisesti aiheuttamista vahingoista. Kuitenkin kaikki kytkennät
ja laitteet ovat itse käytössä testattuja ja toimiviksi havaittuja.

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